`41 Chevy Truck Project
This is the project: a 1941 Chevy pickup. It started in "sort of" original condition: 6-cylinder 216 engine (rebuilt in 1977 and then parked for 35 years), original 3 speed transmission, torque tube rear end. And some not so original: early 50's rear fenders, heavy duty (custom?) rear bumper, welded-on spare tire rack. With a lot of maintenance, it probably could have been driven more or less as-is, but I know it wouldn't be very practical that way. With 90 horse power, a wildly sloppy shifter, a solid I-beam front suspension, and geared for a top speed of 50 MPH, this would drive more like a tractor than a modern truck. I don't think the transmission even has synchros. It would be fine on the farm, but it's not something that I would want to dive in traffic.My plan is to replace all of the drive train and suspension, to bring it up to more modern standards of driveability.
History
I didn't buy this truck. It has been in my family longer than I have. That alone makes it special. I am told that this truck belonged to Sacramento Box and Lumber Company back in the 50's. My grandfather was a foreman at the lumber mill, and this was his company provided truck. When the mill closed in 1965, he arranged to keep the truck.Sacramento Box Lumber Mill in Woodleaf CA, in the 50's |
Decades went by, he tried to get his own kids interested in the truck, but no luck. Eventually I (maybe foolishly) decided that I wanted to take this on. He told me from the beginning that this truck has no antique value. This was a serious work truck in its early days, and had many modifications over the years to where it is of little interest to collectors or restorers. But to me, that is fine. It means I dont have to feel guilty about making changes and upgrades.
In March of 2011, my cousin brought the truck down to me in Fremont, and so began my adventure.
Goals
Usually I see old cars restored as either hotrods, or as original antiques. But my goal is to make this a functional pickup truck again. Something that is reasonably easy and fun to drive, and looks more or less original. The whole point in an old car is to have something fairly unique. Something that you dont see every day.These are some of my goals:
- Reliable
- Easy to start and drive
- Modern handling (for a truck)
- Modern brakes (even ABS if possible)
- Low emissions (most old cars stink! Literally)
- More or less "stock looking"
- Still capable of hauling half a ton
- Cant break the bank
- Fun to build (a chance to use all those tools in my garage)
To meet these goals, all of the drive train and suspension
will need to be replaced. There have been vast improvements in all areas
of engine, transmission, steering, brakes, etc. to where keeping any of
the original mechanics does not make sense. I thought about doing a
whole frame swap (S10, Dakota, or similar modern truck chassis), which
in theory, upgrades everything in one big step. I eventually decided
against this for two reasons: 1. This seems to me like kind of a
kludgey approach, and 2) this one BIG step may be beyond my abilities.
So I will be adding new pieces to the original chassis.
Engine
Original 216 Engine |
There
are more modern in-line six engines (Toyota had a nice one in the 80's
Supra), but for my purposes, a 60's Chevy should be the easiest and
least expensive approach.
Transmission
Original 3 speed transmission |
I
do want to take advantage of the most modern 5 speed designs, so I
wound up selecting a New Venture 3500 transmission used in late 90's
Chevy trucks. This will bolt right up to the 230/250/292 six cylinder
engines (as well as the SBC V8), so it should be a
straight forward upgrade. One thing of note is that modern transmissions
(of any type) are MUCH bigger than the original '41 gear box (which is
laughably small) so clearance will most likely need to be added to the
floor pan, frame cross members, and maybe firewall.
Another
thing to consider in the selection process is that modern five and six
speed manual transmissions are very long, and usually have the shifter
located way to the back, intended for long sports cars with the shifter
between the seats. The old trucks had the shifter on top of the
transmission, only inches behind the bell housing. The NV3500 was built
for a truck, and has the shifter located towards the middle of the
transmission, about 4 inches farther back than the original 41. This
will allow the shifter to come up through the floor, without interfering
with a bench seat.
Rear End and Rear Suspension
The original rear end in this truck was the old torque tube design, where essentially, the drive shaft held the torque of the rear wheels, instead of the leaf springs or other suspension parts. This design disappeared in the 50's and rear ends have not changed much sense. Replacing the rear end is relatively simple. Most any rear end made in the last 50 years will work, you just need to find the right width (about 60 inches from hub to hub). Other considerations are the wheel bolt pattern, and strength (largely measured by ring gear size). I also wanted to find a rear end new enough to support ABS sensors, thought I have not been successful in that. Rear ends have gotten wider over the years, and anything new enough to have ABS is too wide for my truck.
I have read the the leaf springs also need to be replaced. Apparently the design of the springs had to change to support the wheel torque, though I dont see any obvious difference just looking at them.
I have read the the leaf springs also need to be replaced. Apparently the design of the springs had to change to support the wheel torque, though I dont see any obvious difference just looking at them.
Front Suspension
Emissions
You rarely see any car enthusiast talk about smog
equipment in a positive light. Emissions equipment is always bad, pull
it off and throw it away. In California, vehicles older than 1975 are
smog exempt. My truck and engine are older than that, so legally I don't
need any smog. But every time I get behind a 70's or older vehicle in
traffic, even one that looks nicely restored and maintained, it usually
smells of gas fumes and exhaust..
Catalytic
converters, introduced in the early 70's, made a huge difference in
hydrocarbon emissions, and I think are worth the extra cost and effort
to make a car clean running and, well, not smell bad. I plan to do as
much as I can on my 60 vintage engine, to bring it up to (down to?) 80's
or 90's emission levels. This includes PCV, sealed gas tank, carbon
canister, EGR, and of course, catalytic converter.
There
are issues with a catalytic converter, they are easily damaged by an
excessively rich mixture or poor running engine. It might require fuel
injection to get the fuel control necessary, but still, this is one of
my goals.
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